Was This One of the Best Days Ever Seen at a California Beach Break?

One lasting memory I have is when it was getting dark, and a lot of the pros had been surfing all day, Then, during the last hour of light as everyone was surfed out and headed in, the older locals filtered out into the lineup, as if they knew it was going to be massive and less crowded later. 

One of the (many) unsung local OB heroes, swinging on a bomb during the last hour of light.
Who da guy? Whoever it is, he should have this hanging on his wall.
Just a little perspective. When the shorebreak whitewater is overhead, you better believe you’re in for one hell of a paddle out.


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